The first step inside the restaurant does not reveal the rurality of the place. Rather, the milieu is vintage formal. Not even the small menu betrays the distinctiveness of Hea Maa, which becomes clear only when you have a chance to talk to the chef-patron. He can tell interesting stories about every base material used. Some are hand-grown and handpicked. But there is not much time for these talks, as the chef’s place is in the kitchen. Hea Maa is quite a small enterprise. It manages with few employees and is in the exact same mood as the chef. Outside of summer season, the restaurant does not see many visitors, so feel free to strike up a conversation with the chef…